{"id":97206361,"date":"2019-07-09T22:55:31","date_gmt":"2019-07-09T22:55:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cheapoair.com\/miles-away\/?p=97206361"},"modified":"2019-07-10T13:50:56","modified_gmt":"2019-07-10T13:50:56","slug":"for-an-eyeful-of-color-while-in-paris-see-monets-gardens-in-bloom-and-in-paint","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cheapoair.com\/miles-away\/for-an-eyeful-of-color-while-in-paris-see-monets-gardens-in-bloom-and-in-paint\/","title":{"rendered":"For an Eyeful of Color While in Paris, See Monet’s Gardens in Bloom and in Paint!"},"content":{"rendered":"

With its mix of cobblestone and asphalt streets and its soot-dusted, zinc-roofed buildings beneath the usual lid of clouds and smog, Paris, the City of Light, is, admittedly, a gray place. Though its pewter cast may help ease you into a more contemplative state of mind as you saunter along the Seine, or inspire you to photograph the city in Henri Cartier-Bresson style, sometimes you just want to add some color to your stay there. One good way to get plenty of it is to see Monet’s flower and water gardens.<\/p>\n

You can do so by visiting his former estate in Giverny, just outside the city, where you can enjoy these two gardens in bloom, and by visiting some very special museums in Paris where you can reflect upon the many luminous paintings he made of them. It’s also the perfect, if not the only, chance to see one of the great muses of the Father of Impressionism and\u00a0the masterpieces it inspired him to create. So, let’s first visit the gardens and then we’ll hit the museums.<\/p>\n

By the way, there are costs to enter the gardens in Giverny, and, of course, to access Paris’ museums, but compared to, say, shopping the\u00a0Champs-Elys\u00e9es, they’re cheap. Flights to Paris<\/a> can still be had even at this time of the year so pounce!<\/p>\n

Wander in\u00a0<\/span>a One-Time Painter’s Paradise in Giverny<\/h2>\n
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Springtime in Monet’s flower garden. \/ Photo by Francoise Legeard for Shutterstock.<\/p><\/div>\n

There are gardens that are simply gardens; gardens that painter’s make paintings of; and then there are gardens that artists grow for the purpose of painting masterpieces. These latter ones are perhaps the most special of all, being carefully shaped by the artists’ aesthetic tastes, by their ideas on art and horticulture, by their obsessions, and often by their own hands. They are muses of the artists’ own making and havens where they can push the boundaries of their art. Monet’s flower and water gardens were such a paradise for him.<\/p>\n

[perfectpullquote align=”full” bordertop=”false” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””] As you explore Monet’s paradise then, you’ll share in his passions and obsessions.\u00a0 [\/perfectpullquote]<\/p>\n

One of his lifelong loves was of course flowers. They were\u00a0a seemingly endless source of inspiration for his painting and gardening, which he also did from a young age. “I must have flowers, always and always,” he said. Not unexpectedly, he also said “Color is my daylong obsession, joy, and torment.” And so, Monet created a large garden filled with thousands and thousands of brilliantly colored flowers in place of the apple orchard in the front of his house at Giverny. With its creation, landscapist had also become landscaper, molding the land to his artistic vision, which he would, after a time, render in oil paint on canvas.<\/p>\n

Called the Clos Normand (or enclosed Norman garden), it ranges over 2 acres and is, despite its wild look, organized on a rectilinear plan. It has many narrow paths called alle\u00e9s and one central Grand Alle\u00e9, framed in arches of richly colored flowers, that runs from the garden’s front gate to the front door of the house.<\/span>\u00a0You won’t find any byzantine or rococo hedges, topiaries, variegated plants (he hated them), or many garden fixtures as you stroll through it. There aren’t many directional signs either. (The better for wandering!)<\/p>\n

[perfectpullquote align=”full” bordertop=”false” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””]Just bed after bed of glorious flowers and the alle\u00e9s that lead you to vivid surprises within them.<\/span>[\/perfectpullquote]<\/p>\n

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Purple haze: The wisteria-canopied Japanese footbridge in Monet’s water garden. \/ Photo via Shutterstock.<\/p><\/div>\n

Fascinated with the play of light on water and enamored of Japanese art as well, he created a Japanese-themed water garden across the low road that runs past the front gate of the Clos Normand. A dreamy medley of green and blue hues accented by the yellow and pink flowers of water lilies, this garden makes a beautiful contrast, a world of its own where you can easily forget about the world.<\/p>\n

[perfectpullquote align=”full” bordertop=”false” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””]One where water lilies take center stage as you gaze into the pond from a Japanese-inspired footbridge.[\/perfectpullquote]<\/p>\n

Needless to say, both gardens are quite special. You don’t have to worry about deciding which one to see first though as the layout of the estate kind of decides for you. Whether you enter through the main entrance near his house on Rue Claude Monet, which is the high road inside the village, or through the group entrance on R<\/span>uelle<\/span>\u00a0Leroy near the low road just outside the village, you\u2019ll find yourself in the Clos Normand. (Individuals with online tickets should enter via the group entrance.) So, let’s go in!<\/span><\/p>\n

Drink in the Neon Nectar of the Sun-Kissed Flowers<\/span><\/h3>\n
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Dahlia…ghtful! \/ Photo by Joseph Decibus. All rights reserved.<\/p><\/div>\n

On a sunny day, as you walk into the Clos Normand on one of its long alle\u00e9s, you can feel the flowers crowd around you in ticklish embrace as if you were an old friend. They greet you with a radiance fit for a royalty. Magically, they melt away that heavy armor you have to wear each day against the slings and arrows of the world, leaving you defenseless to their many charms.<\/span><\/p>\n

“Just look at those day-glo dahlias.” “Check out these over-the-top sunflowers.” “Whatever are those crazy purple rod-like things?” A few things you’ll say or hear said along the way. And so it goes, as you go down the alle\u00e9 through the dazzling show of floral fireworks – bright pops, starbursts, shoots, and sparkles of color surrounding you. As you turn this way and then that, it’s a dizzying spectacle in which you sometimes feel like you’re trying to\u00a0<\/span>walk on a balance beam in the middle of a super soaker paint gun battle.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Monet’s nasturtiums blaze a scarlet and tangerine path along the ground in middle of the\u00a0Grand\u00a0Alle\u00e9\u00a0in the Clos Normand. \/ Photo via Shutterstock.<\/p><\/div>\n

The kinds of flowers<\/a> that you\u2019ll see depend upon when you visit.\u00a0In spring, the mauve wisteria canopy over the Japanese footbridge is divine, and in early fall, you can enjoy Monet\u2019s beloved red and yellow nasturtiums.<\/span><\/p>\n

[perfectpullquote align=”full” bordertop=”false” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””]The<\/span><\/span>y<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>do\u00a0<\/span><\/span>a\u00a0<\/span><\/span>fiery little<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>paso<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>do<\/span><\/span>ble<\/span><\/span><\/a>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>in the Grand\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Alle\u00e9<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>to the admiration of\u00a0<\/span><\/span>an<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>audience of\u00a0<\/span><\/span>dahlias and asters<\/span><\/span>, not to mention<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span>us\u00a0<\/span><\/span>tourists.<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span>[\/perfectpullquote]<\/p>\n

Float Away on the Cool, Green Lily Pads<\/span><\/h3>\n
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A transfixing swirl of clouds and lily pads in Monet’s Japanese water garden. (How did Monet ever get any painting done?) \/ Photo by Eric Valenne via Shutterstock.<\/p><\/div>\n

There\u2019s little\u00a0<\/span>shade in the\u00a0<\/span>Clos Normand as\u00a0<\/span>most of the trees are ornamenta<\/span>l ones such as<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Japanese\u00a0<\/span>c<\/span>heery and\u00a0<\/span>a<\/span>pple<\/span>\u00a0along<\/span>\u00a0with a lime tree or two<\/span>. So<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>when<\/span>\u00a0you\u00a0<\/span>want\u00a0<\/span>to cool off<\/span>, just head into the<\/span>\u00a0water garden<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0There’s a\u00a0<\/span>pedestrian underpass in the southwestern corner of the Clos Normand<\/span>\u00a0that goes under the low road and leads you right in.<\/span>\u00a0As you go\u00a0<\/span>through it,<\/span>\u00a0you<\/span>\u2019ll have that<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Alice-in-Wonderland feeling\u00a0<\/span>of\u00a0<\/span>falling<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>down\u00a0<\/span>the\u00a0<\/span>rabbit hol<\/span>e<\/span>\u00a0and\u00a0<\/span>winding up<\/span>\u00a0in a\u00a0<\/span>very strange<\/span>\u00a0new world.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>For t<\/span>he Japanese themed water garden is\u00a0<\/span>so\u00a0<\/span>idyllic<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0so<\/span>\u00a0lush<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>and dreamy<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>s<\/span>o serene,\u00a0<\/span>that you expect a nymph\u00a0<\/span>or a<\/span>t least a<\/span>\u00a0geisha\u00a0<\/span>to<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>pop out and\u00a0<\/span>greet\u00a0<\/span>you<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Unlike the Clos Normand, the water garden is circu<\/span>lar<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>a series of radiating rings<\/span>\u00a0beginning<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>with<\/span>\u00a0a lily pad, then clusters of\u00a0<\/span>lily<\/span>\u00a0pads, then the pond,\u00a0<\/span>and\u00a0<\/span>then the path around the pond<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

[perfectpullquote align=”full” bordertop=”false” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””]Ripples<\/span>\u00a0of blue-green to\u00a0<\/span>relieve\u00a0<\/span>your<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>flower-<\/span>fevered mind<\/span>.<\/span>[\/perfectpullquote]<\/p>\n

G<\/span>az<\/span>ing<\/span>\u00a0into the\u00a0<\/span>water<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>then<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>you can<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>easily become<\/span>\u00a0ent<\/span>ranced watch<\/span>ing<\/span>\u00a0the\u00a0<\/span>l<\/span>ily<\/span>\u00a0pad<\/span>s<\/span>\u00a0and clouds\u00a0<\/span>floating<\/span>\u00a0together\u00a0<\/span>in its mirror surface<\/span>, the Clos Normand almost\u00a0<\/span>forgotten<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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In the Japanese water garden, the weeping willows only ever weep for Monet. \/ Photo by Joseph Decibus. All rights reserved.<\/p><\/div>\n

The\u00a0<\/span>melancholic weeping willows<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>give<\/span>\u00a0t<\/span>he water garden a<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>poignant<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>haunted beauty\u00a0<\/span>that\u00a0<\/span>seems to deepen at day<\/span>\u2019s end<\/span>\u00a0when i<\/span>t<\/span>\u00a0appears to be\u00a0<\/span>p<\/span>laintively\u00a0<\/span>waiting<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>for Monet to return<\/span>. And\u00a0<\/span>for all we know<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0maybe\u00a0<\/span>he<\/span>\u00a0does<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span>Maybe<\/span>,<\/span>\u00a0on certain moonlit evenings, when\u00a0<\/span>th<\/span>e\u00a0<\/span>willows<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>shimmer\u00a0<\/span>irresistibly in\u00a0<\/span>their moon-<\/span>sequined<\/span>\u00a0beauty,\u00a0<\/span>the wind whispers<\/span>\u00a0\u201cMonet, Monet<\/span>\u201d\u00a0<\/span>in secretive call.<\/span><\/p>\n

And along he comes, gliding in on the stream in his floating studio to\u00a0<\/span>revisit<\/span>\u00a0his<\/span>\u00a0muse as\u00a0<\/span>all\u00a0<\/span>gre<\/span>at<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>artists<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>who\u2019ve passed on must surely<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>be\u00a0<\/span>fated\u00a0<\/span>to do<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Led\u00a0<\/span>by the moonbeams, his eyes twinkling in the glowing garden, he slips in<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>as silent<\/span>ly<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>as the eel grass<\/span>\u00a0swi<\/span>ms<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>i<\/span>n the cool current<\/span>, paint brush and palette eagerly in hand<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>A<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>procession of geisha\u00a0<\/span>welcomes him<\/span>\u00a0home<\/span>,\u00a0<\/span>click clack<\/span>ing<\/span>\u00a0across the footbridge in clogs with impending cadence<\/span>;<\/span>\u00a0peek<\/span>ing<\/span>\u00a0over spread hand\u00a0<\/span>fans with<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>ghostly faces<\/span>;<\/span>\u00a0fluoresc<\/span>ing<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>in silk kimono<\/span>s<\/span>\u00a0like\u00a0<\/span>the most\u00a0<\/span>exotic<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>of\u00a0<\/span>fireflies.<\/span><\/p>\n

[perfectpullquote align=”full” bordertop=”false” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””]Such a vision…could send\u00a0the wisteria into hysteria.\u00a0<\/span>Such is the\u00a0<\/span>bewitching\u00a0<\/span>aura<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>of<\/span>\u00a0the water garden<\/span>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>[\/perfectpullquote]<\/p>\n