The best approach to Oslo is by sea, sailing up the fjord (where shrimpers and small sailing boats jostle with ferries and merchant ships) to where the city sprawls out from its compact centre around the quays to the flanks of the surrounding hills. Although not noted for grand architecture, Oslo's history lives on in medieval buildings like Akershus Slott, which stands across a park from the austere angular bulk of the 1930s-style Radhus (City Hall). A highlight is the Slott (Royal Palace), which elegantly dominates the view west along Karl Johans Gate past the Storting (Parliament).

For such a comparatively small city, Oslo is remarkably well supplied with museums and galleries. The compact city centre retains much of its medieval layout, amid acres of greenery and parks. Within walking range of the centre, there are pleasant districts through which to browse, enjoying the street life and the shops. The area immediately to the west of the Oslo S station (Oslo Sentralstasjon), however, is best avoided after dark.

Aker Brygge, at the centre, has a quayside bustle. To the west, on the edges of the Vigeland Sculpture Park, Frogner is dotted with cafés and interesting boutiques. On the eastern edge of town, in Tøyenbadet Park, lies the Munch Museum, which houses the vast collection left to the city by Edvard Munch, as well as the Botanical Gardens and the Toyenbadet swimming pool complex. The peninsula of Bygdoy, with its fascinating collection of museums and desirable residential areas, is a short ferry ride away from the City Hall. The Radhus (City Hall), which lies midway between the Royal Palace and Akershus Slott, is a short walk from Oslo Cathedral, the Domkirke, and the nearby market, Stortorvet. It is surrounded by museums and theatres and is a perfect starting point for an exploration of the town centre or for undertaking a cruise on the fjord from nearby Pier 3.

For nighlife, a good first port of call is Rosenkrantz gate, a street teeming with bars, music pubs and other nightspots. Many nightclubs are located on and around Karl Johans gate. Oslo nightlife is generally relaxed, with neat smart-casual clothing good for everywhere but the most expensive restaurants.

The Dubliner, Radhusgata 28, is a typical 'Irish' themed bar, as is the Kilkenny Inn, ovre Slottsgate. Similarly, the Scotsman, Karl Johans gate, is popular with ex-pats and visitors and also offers the adjacent Angus Steakhouse. English is more often spoken than Norwegian at The Belfry, Lille Grensen 7. A recent arrival in town is an Australian theme pub, Down Under, in Fridtjof Nansens plass. In summer, there is a choice of open-air bar/restaurants along the quaysides of Aker Brygge, in front of Akershus Festning. But again, these tend to stretch the traveler's budget somewhat. Stravinsky, Rosenkrantzgate 17, is a swanky venue for those who don't mind a bit of 'clubbing'thrown in – there is a disco night every Wednesday. The Kristiania Bar and Cafe, right by the central station in Jernbanetorget, is a cavernous and rather elegant venue that gets absolutely packed on Friday and Saturday evenings.